A tale of 20 years ago…more than some food for thought.
TEESTA SETALVAD
TEESTA SETALVAD
This
a story about Hatihalka, a cluster of villages in the Midnapore district
of West Bengal. When you visit there, apart from the villagers and their homes,
what is unusual about Hatihalka are the enchanting ruins of terracota temples,
32 of them, which we are told are 250 and 300 years old. These temples stretch
over a three square kilometre area, they are the Sheetala, Navaratna and Das
Mahavidya temples. Amongst them is also a stone image, built in the ninth
century of Vishnu Lokeswar, a combination of the images of Vishnu and Buddha.
Experts say that Buddhism once flourished in this area. On the walls of these
temples, we can see depiction’s of the battle for Sri Lanka, episodes from the
life of Lord Krishna and many hunting scenes.
Mohammad
Yasin, a Muslim resident of this cluster of villages ruins. Through his
childhood, he was haunted by them “What
kind of people lived on the same soil that we tread? What were their thoughts?
Their dreams? How did they live?”
Twenty-five
years ago before two decades, when the frail Yasin became a school teacher in
the same village, consumed with his passion to prevent the further decay of
these temples, he began a one-man crusade. He started meeting local political
leaders, he wrote to the Indian government alerting them about the plight
of this decaying heritage. Receiving no immediate answers, he travelled to
Delhi himself to meet with archaeologists and even spent Rs. 50,000 of his own
money to instigate action towards preservation of the forgotten
Even
as he fought hard for his dream, he faced difficulties. because thought he
passionately loved these temples, he had a Muslim name. Often , in the midst of
his crusade, he despaired. part of a precious heritage of the medieval past,
the impressive Navartna temple had many of its marble fittings stolen. And
once, thanks to the vigilance of Yasin who had set up a committee of local
villagers, a criminal spotted attempting to sell a stone image for Rs. 8,000 to
a foreigner, was stopped.
Thanks to the singleminded efforts of Yasin, some grants were sanctioned by the government for the protection of the temples but much of it got diverted by the local panchayat away from the temple-restoration work. Still Yasin devotes his time and effort. writing on the subject of his temples, sometimes despairing but never giving up the cause of his beloved temples. through the Pathra Archaeological Preservation Committee of which Yasin is a member fresh steps are afoot to save the temples that are also threatened by submergence if the Kansabati river changes its course.
Thanks to the singleminded efforts of Yasin, some grants were sanctioned by the government for the protection of the temples but much of it got diverted by the local panchayat away from the temple-restoration work. Still Yasin devotes his time and effort. writing on the subject of his temples, sometimes despairing but never giving up the cause of his beloved temples. through the Pathra Archaeological Preservation Committee of which Yasin is a member fresh steps are afoot to save the temples that are also threatened by submergence if the Kansabati river changes its course.
But
today , despite these efforts, Yasin is a lonely man. Not wanting to divulge
their names locals say, “If the temples are standing today, it is because of
the labours of our Pathan.” But that is in private. In public, the
Muslims call him a kafir and only the
other day, the old temple priest took his sandle out and shook it at Yasin in
anger asking, “What is your motive in meddling in the temple business?"
A
question for you and me…..
WHAT SHOULD YASIN HAVE DONE ?
SHOULD HE HAVE GIVEN UP HIS CRUSADE FOR HIS BELOVED TEMPLES ?
WHAT SUPPORT SHOULD HE RECEIVE FOR HIS STRUGGLE TO CONTINUE FROM US?
WHAT SHOULD YASIN HAVE DONE ?
SHOULD HE HAVE GIVEN UP HIS CRUSADE FOR HIS BELOVED TEMPLES ?
WHAT SUPPORT SHOULD HE RECEIVE FOR HIS STRUGGLE TO CONTINUE FROM US?
Have
we built borders in our minds?
P.S.
A recent book I picked up has an interesting title, Historic Temples of
Pakistan – A Call to Conscience.Authored
by Reema Abbasi through painstaking research and rigourous travels across
Pakistan. The author says in her Preface
that this book “concentrates on Pakistan’s fraying social order and the sad
prospects of its bringing about its own destruction by documenting Hindu places
of worship, major festivals, prominent
orders of priesthood and the idol-crafter Fakira.”
The first five chapters deal with
the life and times of antiquated temples in every region of the country that is
Pakistan. For the lover of history and icononography, the majestic images of
the image of the Varun Dev temple. Set on an island this tribute to the worship
of the God of Water, Varuna isdeep inside Sindh and described by Abbasi, “…the
ancient, elongated, pyramid-like structure of the Varun Dev Mandir comes into
view, like a javelin ready to launch into the sky. As if presiding over
the Arabian Sea, the sandstone structure
still courts mystery in majesty. Come to Ranchore Lines known as ‘mini-Mumbai”
(a much more benign term that what we use in our cities when we dub an area
‘Mini Pakistan!) ..as we travel, with the author into Ranchore Lines and the
Narainpur Basti, that was scarred with the cries of blood and revenger post
December 6 1992 as mobs rampaged Hindu areas and signs of Hindu worship and
culture, (today’s Karachi’s largest depressed caste and class populations live
her; a 5,000 strong grouping of Meghwar, Kolhi, Hindu, Sikh, Marwari, Gujarati,
Marathi and Hare Krishna clans) a jewel stands out in the midst of the poverty
and squalor. Pristine white, the Shri Naval Mandir Ashram, from 1905 has been
built in intricate Jodhpur style. Legend has it that this shrine brought the
dead tolife, cleansed hearts of hatred…..Abassi met Kalidas J. Khandara of the
All Pakistan Maharshi Naval Samaj who told her that Muslims, Christians, Hindus
all come here for the ultimate, blessings for a child (in cases of infertility)
or prosperity. The 200 square yards,
pale yellow of the Naval Para that surround this im portant shrine foreground
the deities in their niches and alcoves: Santoshi Maa, Kali, Vishnu,
Shiva,Ganesha, Hanuman, Guru Nanak and Rama Pir with a white Nandi bull
critical to the Shaivite tradition and a large brass bell in the pillar of the
sanctum sanctorium.
The
age old peepul tree, the red vermillion marks and the sacred orange and
coloured threads are familiar, could be rooted anywhere. Oil, sugar and sindoor
is kept at its base and the meticulous commitment of the author to a journey
and creation of a historical record that is both a testimony and resistance to
the present politics at play in Pakistan, is what makes this book special. On a
visit to Delhi a few months ago, the author was accorded a few paragraphs in
the print media on her recent publication. None of the television channels
however thought it fit to showcase the woman, the endeavor, the courage and the
commitment. I would have hoped that the Urdu media, limited as it is by
resources would have picked up this story and broadcast a detailed conversation
of this author’s work.
It
was not to be. We have in these dark and troubled times, become victims, ourselves
of super-imposed divisions, borders, identities and entities. Not only does
this reality do a gross injustice to ourselves and our history, it contributes
little to forging unique and unusual resistances in these dark and troubled
times.
Ends